Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

If you have a question or need help, this is the place to be.
Post Reply
AlexBw
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:32 am

Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

Post by AlexBw » Wed Jun 13, 2018 5:52 am

I am using the 0.4.1.r1722 version of Eventghost on Windows 10 x64 (Version 1803, Build 17134.81) with a Rosewill RRC-126 IR remote.

Before the Creator's Update of Windows 10, I was able to reprogram all the buttons on the remote including the standby button (Crescent shaped icon on it). After the Creator's Update, I can't seem to reprogram the standby button, even though I have assigned different function to the standby button.

Pressing the standby button puts Windows 10 in standby mode. I have to use the keyboard or mouse to bring it out of standby, and it messes up my display (sometimes with no video signal) if I were playing a movie at the time I pressed the standby button.

I have context specific folders, each of which has standby button programmed to quit the application currently in active context. Regardless of the context, standby button puts Windows in standby, after bringing it out of standby, I can see in the Eventghost left pane, that button press was received and the associated actions were executed or were tried.

I am guessing that Windows 10 is intercepting the button press, triggering the standby and also forwarding the button press to Eventghost. Not sure how I can prevent it or troubleshoot it.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

User avatar
kgschlosser
Site Admin
Posts: 4250
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:43 am
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado USA

Re: Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

Post by kgschlosser » Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:17 am

Here ya go m8, Follow the instructions on this POST It should solve your issues.

But as a note. any time a Windows update is done if a plugin for EG has removed or altered registry keys in order to make the device function inside of EG those registry modifications will be undone. So you may also have to uninstall the plugin and then reinstall it.
If you like the work I have been doing then feel free to Image

AlexBw
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:32 am

Re: Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

Post by AlexBw » Wed Jun 13, 2018 11:56 pm

Thanks for the help.

In my case, the plugins are working properly, only the standby button is being hijacked or misbehaving in some way.

Just to be certain, I uninstalled Eventghost completely, including the MCEIr service and reinstalled. During re-installation there were no errors or warnings for unsigned drivers, in fact there were absolutely no warnings or errors ! I was able to load my saved configuration successfully.

The standby button continues to put system in standby with one interesting difference. I do not see the macro assigned to the button execute as it did, before it was reinstalled. The following are the relevant lines from the log pane.
MceRemote.Mce.Power
Process.Created.taskhostw
Process.Created.LogonUI
System.SessionLock [u'Alex']
Task.Activated.EventGhost
Process.Created.LockApp
Process.Destroyed.taskhostw
System.Suspend
Task.Created.LockApp
Task.NewWindow.LockApp
Task.Deactivated.EventGhost
Task.Activated.LockApp
Process.Created.RuntimeBroker
Process.Created.svchost
Process.Created.svchost
Process.Created.svchost
Process.Created.ROUTE
Process.Created.conhost
Process.Destroyed.ROUTE
Process.Destroyed.conhost
Process.Destroyed.svchost
Process.Created.NvTmMon
Process.Created.svchost
Process.Destroyed.NvTmMon
System.Resume
System.ResumeAutomatic
Process.Created.svchost
Process.Created.svchost
Process.Destroyed.svchost
Process.Created.taskhostw
Process.Destroyed.taskhostw
System.SessionUnlock [u'Alex']
Task.Deactivated.LockApp
Task.Activated.EventGhost
Process.Destroyed.LogonUI
Process.Destroyed.svchost
Process.Created.svchost
Process.Created.wermgr
Process.Created.taskhostw
Process.Destroyed.wermgr
Process.Destroyed.taskhostw
Process.Destroyed.svchost
Any ideas ?

User avatar
kgschlosser
Site Admin
Posts: 4250
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:43 am
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado USA

Re: Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

Post by kgschlosser » Thu Jun 14, 2018 1:12 am

Windows 10 gives no errors. Everything looks as though it should be working. It doesn't even show that any devices have an issue. Give it a try and see what happens. It can always be undone. It will help to eliminate one possible cause. Then we can go through from there.


But what I am also going to have e you do is uninstall the MCE ir service again do this with running EventGhost as an administrator. Having administrative privileges is not enough. You do not have to worry about uninstalling the plugin.

Once you have done that reboot the computer. The reboot is when the actual service gets deleted.

Once rebooted run EventGhost and create a new empty tree. Then save that tree. Close EventGhost. Then reopen EventGhost as an administrator install the MCE Vista+ plugin. Install the service. Save the tree exit EG and restart the computer again.

Once restarted open EG and test the button see what happens.


This is going to ensure that there is nothing other the. Windows that can be causing the issue. We need to have a baseline and remove any other possible elements. This is the way to go about it.

Tho I would have to dig out my pinnacle MCE remote I don't remember having a sleep button.

If this does not work I am going to need s snapshot of a section of your registry. Maybe Microsoft changed a key mapping. I will get the reg key that I need a snapshot of if this is unsuccessful .

We will work through this. Microsoft has managed to cause us tons of problems especially with the fact that it will not install signed drivers and gives no errors when you try to. Not a single indicator. It looks like all is working just fine.

I have created a forum topic about this issue and creating a mechanism to handle these things internally and seamless to the user.
If you like the work I have been doing then feel free to Image

AlexBw
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:32 am

Re: Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

Post by AlexBw » Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:41 pm

I followed your instructions and was able to test it starting with an empty tree and the sleep button did not put the system in sleep mode. I loaded my saved profile and the sleep button behaves as desired. :-)

Thank you very much for your help, much appreciated.

I guess the conclusion that we can draw here is that Windows 10 discretely disabled some functionalities of the unsigned driver and disabling the signature enforcement through startup options as per your instructions got it installed properly. I have been having seriously annoying problems with Windows 10 since 1607 update, most notably with graphics and HDMI audio. I might just go for a fresh install of 1607 and stick with it for a while.

Thanks again.

Cheers.

User avatar
kgschlosser
Site Admin
Posts: 4250
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:43 am
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado USA

Re: Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

Post by kgschlosser » Fri Jun 15, 2018 1:16 am

No need to do a reinstall.

Think about it I just gave you the cure all for almost all hardware related issues in Windows 10. The issues are not specific to only EG and it's drivers it affects ALL drivers. So my suggestion is to leave the driver signing disabled uninstall your graphics and audio drivers. Then reinstall them.

If you don't mind me asking what devices are you having issues with. Manufacturer and model. I can walk you through how to get everything working properly.
If you like the work I have been doing then feel free to Image

AlexBw
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:32 am

Re: Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

Post by AlexBw » Fri Jun 15, 2018 8:54 pm

Thank you very much for the willingness to guide me through other problems too.

I decided to reinstall as I thought it would delete any remnants of EG from the registry and other Windows cache and thus eliminate any problems that might arise. Next time I would remember, try to get it done without a reinstall.

I have been having issues with graphics and audio, both of which are related to the video card I have - Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti. My gaming PC is connected to an AV receiver (Sony STR-DN1080), which in turn connects to the Samsung 4K HDTV. I had the latest Nvidia drivers installed which also provide the HDMI audio drivers using WASAPI Passthrough.

The latest drivers are causing occasional artifacts but, mostly a green tint all over the screen. Every game I launched exhibited this green tint, but changing the in-game settings from Fullscreen to Border-less Windowed would seemingly fix it . Other apps like media players and browsers also suffer from this green tint issue. If I turn off the receiver, letting the receiver passthrough the signal to the TV, would result in either loss of signal or green tint. The audio would get dropped too occasionally. I googled and learned that drivers after version 381.18 have been causing this issue, so I did a fallback to clean install of 381.18. Now I seldom face the green tint and audio issues, but haven't completely eliminated it.

I had no issues up until the Creator's Update was installed, the recent update seemed to have worsened the symptoms. Adding to that, the USB storage devices perform terribly slow. The motherboard has both integrated Intel and ASMEDIA USB ports. All perform terribly slow.

I intend to wait for a short while and do a fresh install of Windows Build 1607, which reportedly is the most stable version of Win 10. I see no harm in completely disabling the driver signature enforcement, as I only install the drivers that are known to trustworthy. So, a fresh install of Win 10 1607 with driver signature enforcement disabled soon after the installation and followed by all the drivers and apps should perhaps fix the issues.

Thanks again, it is OK if you don't have the time to follow through.

Cheers.

User avatar
kgschlosser
Site Admin
Posts: 4250
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:43 am
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado USA

Re: Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

Post by kgschlosser » Sat Jun 16, 2018 12:56 am

your problems sound like an HDMI cable issue. Or possibly a lose HDMI connection. This could be thought of as possibly a driver problem if a previous version didn't have the issue. But if the new driver makes the video card more sensitive or makes the power output of the video stream lower then the problems would surface. but he real issue is the cable. For the sake of eliminating it as a possible problem change out the cables to ones that are thicker.
typically the thicker it is the better the shielding and that can eliminate any noise issues. and a better cable is usually thicker and the better cables will have a lower resistance per foot allowing a lower power output to get to it's destination.


You can read here about similar issues

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receiv ... eiver.html
If you like the work I have been doing then feel free to Image

AlexBw
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:32 am

Re: Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

Post by AlexBw » Sat Jun 30, 2018 4:18 am

Thank you very much for going the extra mile to help me.

I tried 2 different HDMI cables and the problem persists. I upgraded to the latest Nvidia drivers and the green screen problem got worse with occasional freeze requiring hard reset.

I will have to try a fresh installation of Windows Build 1607 and see if that resolves the problem.

Apparently I do not have problems with Nvidia Shield TV 2017 connected through the same receiver. So, it cannot be the receiver or TV or bad HDMI cable.

I have run EVGA OC Scanner stress test for hours and it returned 0 artifacts, my GPU seems to have no issues. I will have to file a bug report with Nvidia.

User avatar
kgschlosser
Site Admin
Posts: 4250
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:43 am
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado USA

Re: Cannot reprogram the standby button on the IR remote

Post by kgschlosser » Sat Jun 30, 2018 4:39 pm

have you tried using the display port on the card?

You probably have a displayport connection. we want to rule out a hardware issue. changing the HDMI port you have the PC plugged into on your AVR as well. if you can go direct to the TV that is another thing to try.

exhaust every possible hardware issue first then the only thing that would be left is going to be software. I realize that the problem gets worse with a software update. but it could be because the software is more sensitive in order to give better performance or something of the sort. and is causing it to becomes more apparent and the underlying problem has always been there.

These are the most aggravating problems to work through especially if making changes is hard to do and time consuming/costly. I have been there with a sound card that was built onto a main board. My AVR is an old one and only supports HDMI 1.1 (1080i) and has no pass through feature. and the toslink audio out from the main board went to crap. but only when playing encoded audio. which is very off. i tried everything ideally it is better to have the audio sent over the HDMI. so i tried HDMI splitters to get the audio to the AVR and the video to the TV. and for some crazy reason the splitter would see the TV as an AVR and the AVR as a TV and send the data in the wrong directions. I ended up having to replace the mainboard/processor/ram in that machine. It took 3 months to identify that is was 100% a hardware failure and not a driver related issue.

I had the green line issue as well and I use ATI video cards. and for the life of me i do not remember what i did that fixed it.

as a note... I do not know how your setup is. Mine is done this way.

my main HTPC is connected to a projector at 1080p and there is a second monitor attached at 1280x1024. now there are 2 screens that are attached that produce a decently high resolution.. I would remote desktop into the machine and I would have all kinds of video problems. this is because the PC created 2 more monitors one at 1080p (1920x1080) and another at 1280x1024. these were virtual mirrored monitors for the RDP connection. what i did not know... is that the video card sees the virtual monitors as actually being physically attached. and it processes the video for them as well. so the video card is now having to process data for 2 screens at 1920x1080 and 2 screen at 1280x1024 it was way to much for the video cards i was running.

This was an extremely costly problem because i am running a total of 4 htpc's that were in 2u server chassis (3.5" tall) and i needed to use the video cards that were on the main board or a half height slot inserted one. well neither of those options gave me video cards that would be able to handle this. So i had to build a chassis that could hold 4 HTPC's complete all the power supplys, HDD's fans. as well as 4 full length double slot full height video cards. and it had to fit into an opening 19" wide by 14" tall. and have the ability to service a single machine without having to shutdown the other 3.

The point to this is to make sure you have ruled out every possible thing. With the things that I have done I have come across most if not all of the really odd and mysterious issues. and I have worked through all of them. I am almost 100% certain the green line issue is a hardware related problem and not a software one. tho not every setup is the same there is a possibility that it is not. but be very diligent in trying to find the cause. The reason why I say this is because it gets even more frustrating if you make a bug report and it gets rejected because they state it's hardware. give them no reason to do this. tell them every single thing you have done to try and find the cause at the hardware level. so there will be no way for them to reject it. If you can isolate exactly where it is coming from this is going to make it easier for them as well.

Change the video resolution to a lower setting. change the refresh rate to a lower one. see if the problem still persists. if your AVR has a video pass through option. turn it on. an AVR processes all video plugged into it if pass through is not turned on. it does this for adding OSD's and some AVR's offer noise reduction and other adjustments that you can do to the video stream. Take that out of the equation. turn off any and all things your TV does in terms of video processing. Dynamic noise reduction is a mystery to me. the reason for HDMI ever being invented was to have a means to get the super high resolutions without noise. so if there is no noise why is there a noise reduction option on the TV? turn it off. it is something that is a waste and it alters the video stream. any other dynamic settings try to have as little as possible altering the video stream. You may come across what is causing it. You are running a PC that outputs the video. Your PC is the only place where any alterations to the video stream should take place. it is going to do the best job at it. so make changes before the video gets sent over the wire. I am not sure how TV's operate internally but I would image that adjustments to brightness and colors are done at the hardware level on the TV and not to the video stream. I am not sure on this tho.

Sorry for the book. I am walking through things I have done hoping it would help me remember how i fixed the same issue you are having. I think my issue was a flaky HDMI port on the TV. This would be the reason why I have my setup use HDMI2 on my TV. for some reason that is what keeps on coming to mind is the use of the HDMI2. I can't remember a reason for having it in that port. it very well could be that was the fix. LOL. it fits into something that I would have tried and I would have done it as one of the last things i tried or even accidentally. so change up the ports on the AVR as well. some AVR's have more then a single HDMI out. I know mine does. so possibly using the other HDMI output.

I am trying to give you a list of things to go through to make sure that all bases are covered. and that something was no missed.
It is always the simplest thing that is overlooked and that is usually the cause/solution to what seems to be the most complex problems. I have helped a lot of people on these forums. and that statement above has so much truth to it it's astounding. So when I question down a problem or I suggest solutions i list ALL possible options. even the obvious ones. so please never take offense to this. we have to put all the cards on the table and analyze each and every single one. Trust me when I tell you we will find the cause of the problem and if it is something that we can fix then it will be fixed as well. I never give up.

AlexBw wrote:
Sat Jun 30, 2018 4:18 am
I upgraded to the latest Nvidia drivers and the green screen problem got worse with occasional freeze requiring hard reset.
This is the only thing that makes me curious. is the fact that the PC would lock up. did you get a BSOD?
Please do this on the chance that you do get a BSOD we do not want the system to reboot. we need a piece of information off the screen if you do get one.

open the start menu
right click on computer
in the menu click on properties
the System Properties dialog will open
click on the advanced tab at the top
third button down the settings for startup and recovery click that
the Startup and Recovery dialog will open
at the bottom are the System Failure settings.
in the Write debugging information section change the option from Kernel memory dump to None. there is no reason to use up space on your HDD for something you will most likley never use.
uncheck the Automatically restart. This will make sure the BSOD stays up on your screen for you to see.

Ever had that feeling that your computer rebooted???. This could have been the cause. At least this way we will now know.

If you do get a BSOD about half way down the screen you will see a single line that starts with ***STOP just after the STOP there will be 10 letters/numbers starting with 0x This is the reason why the computer halted. you plug that hex decimal code into a HEX to Decimal converter (easily found with google) once you have the decimal number then wander over to this page
https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/window ... rror-codes
and look up the error using that decimal error code.

sometimes this can help to point to where the problem may be. sometimes it leads to a dead end. sometimes the error code covers a broad range of things like this cryptic code 0x0000124 which translates to WHEA UNCORRECTABLE ERROR.???? this error can be caused by sooooooo many things. But the one thing that most people will think from researching is that some piece of hardware in their PC failed. or the registry got corrupted. something along those lines. and the number 1 cause of it and one that you will not find as a cause unless specifically searching for it. is to much dust in your PC case. the system is overheating. nothing a couple of deep breaths and blowing out the dust in the CPU and the power supply won't fix. NEVER use any kind of compressed air. especially the canned variety. what happens when a gas rapidly expands?? it gets cold. and the air in those cans have 0 humidity to them. so now you take cold dry air and run it across warm moist air. and what do you have??? a burnt out PC from the elecrical storm you created inside you PC case (lightning, static discharge from atmospheric conditions). better to blow on it with air from your body. do mind not to slobber all over the insides of the machine LOL. Point to this is that the BSOD screen does have information on it to help track down the cause. so if you see it write that error code down!.

System restore is junk. most people will have problems when they are specifically doing something on their machine that caused the problem. so if you see one of these BSOD's after installing a program or updating divers when you reboot the computer DO NOT LOGIN. instead power down the computer (pressing and holding the power button) then power the computer back on. as soon as the bios starts to load start tapping F8 keep tapping it until you get the Windows Safe mode menu. which most people are familiar with. what they are not familiar with is a single menu choice. "Last Known Good Configuration" This is a very specific feature. it will roll back any changes made to the system before the last login. not file deletions. but things like driver installs or any changed to the registry which is the biggest cause of BSOD's. so if you were tinkering about and mucked something up and get a BSOD this is the menu option you choose if you want to unmuck it. so long as you do not login to the PC. this is the reason why I will always keep the Automatic restart turned off. so if I am not at the PC when it blue screens it is not going to reboot and leave me at a login, and when i sit back down thinking i am having some kind of a brain issue about leaving the PC logged in and simply just login again now etching the problem into the system. Turn off the windows system restore. it hardly ever works properly and consumes so much in the way of system resources it's not worth the trade off. and since there is that other option that works 100% of the time if used properly, it makes the system restore even more pointless.
If you like the work I have been doing then feel free to Image

Post Reply