Projector Lift

Post photos of your home automation. Have discussion about how you use EventGhost in your setup.
Post Reply
User avatar
kgschlosser
Site Admin
Posts: 4313
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:43 am
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado USA

Projector Lift

Post by kgschlosser » Sat Dec 02, 2017 6:40 pm

So I have managed to get myself into yet another cool DIY project.

Since I am changing a couple of things about in my media room. and one of them being lifting the second row of seating by 14". there is the main beam of the house that runs right over the first row seating.

Now when the second row was not lifted i was able to mount the projector under the beam and encase it. Now i could have left the beam the way it was. But i had several things i needed to attend to. I wanted to add 2 more 2X10's. There was some sag in it due to the span. and also the floor above was to bouncy for my liking. even tho code states a maximum of 3/8" deflection over a 24' span of flooring and i was well within that. i still did not care for it.

So during the journey of adding and moving and making the floor above more rigid i decided i wanted to rearrange the heating ducts and see if i can't manage to shrink how far down the covering for the beam was hanging from the ceiling.. This would give the appearance of more room. especially in the second row. I managed to accomplish all of this. i went from almost 20" hanging from the ceiling to round about 12 or so. Problem is i did not want the projector visible so mounting it under was no longer an option. so I was going to mount it in front of (closer to the screen). I ended up 4" to close to the screen for it to fill the screen. I could have moved the screen back but then i would have had to either move my center channel out from behind the screen or i was going to have to punch a hole through the wall and recess the center channel so it would give me more room. I did really want to deal with framing a box and a small roof sticking out the side of my house. tho it would have been under my hot tub i still didn't think that was the best solution.

So the challenge. build a projector lift that will move 7ish inches. and cram it into a space that is 9 ish inches high. motor, drive assembly and lift have to fit. Not i can put the motor between the joists. so that gives me an additional 5" but only for mechanicals. Now to make it ooodles of fun. one of the joists run just about center of the lift. so whatever I decide to lift the thing may have to be offset. so now I have to figure out a way to have the thing go up and down without yoking.

I think I have the solution. I am going to post photos in a bit. I am in the process of setting up the motor and drive assembly.
If you like the work I have been doing then feel free to Image

jachin99
Experienced User
Posts: 557
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:39 pm

Re: Projector Lift

Post by jachin99 » Wed Dec 06, 2017 2:57 pm

Sweet!!

Can't wait for some pics

missmargarita
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2017 11:52 pm
Location: Texas

Re: Projector Lift

Post by missmargarita » Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:46 pm

I can't wait to see the photo and the labor of your hard work. Good luck.
A web developer at PetStreetMall, a place to find quality and affordable pet supplies.

User avatar
kgschlosser
Site Admin
Posts: 4313
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:43 am
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado USA

Re: Projector Lift

Post by kgschlosser » Mon Dec 11, 2017 4:32 am

ok so lift prototype works. Now to tear it all apart and build the final version. the prototype is very sloppy.
If you like the work I have been doing then feel free to Image

User avatar
kgschlosser
Site Admin
Posts: 4313
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:43 am
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado USA

Re: Projector Lift

Post by kgschlosser » Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:06 pm

I should have some photos of the lift this evening possibly maybe tomorrow morning at the latest. I am installing it tonight. I finished the build of it. I have to wire up the controller for it. I am going to use an Arduino to detect voltage on the us port to know when the projector is on. And I will use a thermistor to check the air temp coming from the vents to know when to close it up. I will take a reading just before the fan shuts down so I know what temp to set it for.
If you like the work I have been doing then feel free to Image

User avatar
kgschlosser
Site Admin
Posts: 4313
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:43 am
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado USA

Re: Projector Lift

Post by kgschlosser » Sun Nov 25, 2018 7:45 am

Now a long time ago I said I would post some photos of the lift. and I forgot to. But I have been working on my theatre again. I did not like the first lift design 100%. so I made a new one. This one is much nicer. it is cleaner looking and the drive assembly is going to work better then the last one. The old design I literally had to push the lift off the ceiling and down into place. so there was some large springs holding the thing all the way up. This was alot of strain on the mechanical bits and the drive motor. So this time i am using spring to assist to help the motor. If i get everything dialed in the motor should only be moving 2-3 lbs. that is all it is technically going to have to "lift" the springs are not enough to hold it up in place but they do most of the handling of the weight. I also positioned a spring at each corner of the lift. this should make for the lift moving smoother. I opted to use a cable system and a series of pipes that slide inside one to keep the lift in place as it is moving. they are guides. but these tubes also alow me a place to hide the springs. the prings attach to the bottom of the lift and go up a tube on each corner and come out the top of the tube and are attached to a flat steel bar mounted to the joists. the lift has a top and a bottom. the top is where the motor is attached along with the pully system and cables. the projectpor is mounted upside down attached to the top. so the bottom is essentially being held onto the rest of the lift by the springs.. this is a design feature. I did this intentionally when I finish boxing in all of the mechanicals in my theatre the lift is doing to be inside this boxed in area. I am going to make the box deeper then the lift is.. so when the lift goes up the bottom will catch the beam.. and the springs will extend creating a really nice snug fit and the top will continue up until it's stopping point. This will make it so that i do not have to be exact with my measurements. all i need to do is make the beam within 2" deeper then the lift...

I will shoot some photos tomorrow of the build progress. I am hooking up the electronics I am going to have a microcontroller to handle the running of the lift. it is also going to be an IR blaster, IR receiver. I added a temp sensor into the output duct of the projector. so when the air temp coming out is low enough after the thing has been powered off the lift will then raise it. I added a 2 line display to show the running time and the air temperature. I will add a countdown to when the lift is going to go up. I also added a 4 button control to raise or lower the lift without the projector needing to be turned on.I wired the microcontroller to a usb cable to read for voltage on the USB so it will know when to raise and lower the projector.
If you like the work I have been doing then feel free to Image

slattynan
Posts: 43
Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2018 12:15 pm

Re: Projector Lift

Post by slattynan » Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:33 pm

Nice, look forward to seeing the photos :D

User avatar
kgschlosser
Site Admin
Posts: 4313
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:43 am
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado USA

Re: Projector Lift

Post by kgschlosser » Sun Dec 02, 2018 6:41 pm

well I am going to have to scrap the lift project. I am going to end up attaching the projector directly to the bottom of the beam. I need the inside of it.

I do not want to have to make the beam wider. but I am now going to need to run more HVAC ductwork through the thing. They do not make a furnace that is high efficiency above 120K btu. I managed to negotiate a really good price on 4 furnaces and 1 Split AC along with the coils for the furnace. one of the furnaces and coil and AC are going to go to a buddy of mine. he has a 25 year old furnace like I do. I will be replacing those in the spring for him. I am installing 3 furnaces in my house. one for the 3 bedrooms. one for the main living space, kitchen and dining, and the 3rd for my theater and office. each space is approx 700 sqft and the furnaces are 60K BTU each. they are 95% efficient modulating EC variable speed blowers. so they can range in btu output between 20K btu and 60K btu while adjusting the speed of the blower to match the output. and by having one for each of those spaces. I will have true multizone. If i want to do the install the proper way I need to change a bit of my ductwork arround. and run some additional. It kind of sucks. But it is a good thing also. I have managed to get my cost of heating to drop from 380 a month down to 130 a month with using the 25 year old one. I should manage to drop it a lot more with the multizone. and it will also make the house have less "cool" spots. heating 3 floors on a house that only has r7 insulation for the walls in a lot of it (I have been adding more as I work on the house) and only r19 for the roof is asking to much of a 120K BTU furnace. that is 80% efficient at 8500FT elevation. there is a 20% loss for the furnace it's self then another 15% loss for the elevation so I am getting at best (when the furnace was newer) 78000 BTU's out of it. way to small for a 2100SQFT house. that i do plan on adding another 350 sqft to. living in the rocky mountains we do see -20 degrees pretty often. and the furnace simply never shuts off. with the new furnaces i will have around 144000 BTU output which is a good thing. so i will be able to keep up on those -20 degree days. and on the days where it is 50 or 60 the output can scale it's self back to a total of 48000 btu's so the furnaces will not short cycle or overheat because of the warmer temps.

the best part is between the rebates from the gas company and the federal tax credit. I'm not paying for them. YAY!!... but at 600 each plus shipping i couldn't pass it up. a 120K BTU furnace with the same options is almost 3000.00 just for the furnace.

the AC i got for my buddy matches the furnace so it to is also modulating output. it is a 20seer AC. total price for the 4 furnaces AC coils and shipping was 4200. which during heating season is an outstanding price. these things have all of the same technology they use in commercial buildings. I still have to source out the communicating thermostats. but those i do not have to get in order for the furnaces to operate. they will give me control of the variable output which a normal thermostat will not. I am going to have a look at the communications on these things and I may forgo using thermostats all together and use micro controllers and have EG handle the heavy lifting so to speak.
If you like the work I have been doing then feel free to Image

Post Reply